Monday, May 17, 2010
Photo by Ashley Thomas
I just started surfing in March, and I gotta tell you I am HOOKED. If I could I would probably go every day there is good surf.
An awesome group that I found that helps amputees and other disabled people how to surf. The greatest group of people ever. Anyone can come, I MEAN anyone. There are many amputees, mostly below the knee, then there are a few above the knees, people who never thought they would walk again, blind, paraplegic, spinal injury, brain injury.
And they all probably doubted us when we first told people "I'm going surfing!".
I think that's one of the most satisfying parts about this all. Because you tell people you are going to go surf, and they have this huge doubt in their eyes. THEN: guess what guys??!! That picture up above is NOT photoshopped!!!
It gives you this great satisfaction: "If I can surf I can do ANYTHING I put my mind to".
Even though it was only the 3rd time I ever surfed, I was bound and determined to stand up that day. At first I was doubting myself, the first waves I took I was having a hard time just getting on my knee. But something happened, I honestly couldn't tell you what, but all the sudden I find myself going on all 3's, then keeping my hands on the board and getting on my foot, to standing up! I didn't think about it AT ALL, my body just decided it was going to do it. It was only for a split second before I fell off but it was so exciting. After that, every wave I took I stood up. (I stood up 4 times, 4!!!) I wanted to keep going but the surf session was ending and we had to come in.
I think about it, and if NONE of this happened, if I never had cancer, I honestly do not think I would have ever even TRIED or THOUGHT about trying to surf. Isn't that weird? It takes having something horrible happen to you in order for you to take risks and try something new...
I say for everyone that hasn't had something like that happen to them, try something new anyways! What have you got to lose???
(check out this video of Amp surf on CNN!!!)